Three Superb South American BYOBs
United Airlines just reinstated direct flights from O’Hare to Buenos Aires, but for those who aren’t quite ready to undertake the 11 hour journey,
Be forewarned that South Americans are unrepentant meat-eaters; while there are at least a few vegetarian or seafood options on most menus, the star attraction is always beef.
773-262-9900
Inexpensive
Closed Mondays
This tiny storefront restaurant sits on a busy, grungy street in Rogers Park, but inside, an authentically warm and communal Venezuelan scene awaits. The grandmotherly cook comes out between courses to chat with patrons, most of whom appear to be locals. Soccer matches play on a couple of small TVs, and conversation stops for a shot on goal. Service is laid back but friendly, and the food is spectacular. The light, puffy empanadas are a terrific and not overly-filling appetizer. One must-taste entree is Pabellon, flank steak in a fragrant stew served with black beans, rice and fried plantains. There is usually at least one delicious pork special as well.
Venezuelans tend to drink beer with their meals, so feel free to bring your favorite brew instead of (or in addition to) a bottle of wine.
Las
2965
773-871-2414
Moderate
Las Tablas, which occupies a couple of large, packed rooms in Wrigleyville, offers more in the way of atmosphere than Caracas Grill, with brightly colored walls and Columbian flags on display. The menu is more extensive, as well.
Try the Picada Columbiana for two, featuring pork, steak, sausage, chicken and sides of plantain, yucca, and fried potatoes. The delicious paella is made not only with seafood, but includes chorizo sausage and chicken. As with Caracas Grill, either beer or wine would be an acceptable accompaniment to the hearty fare.
Tango Sur
3763
773-477-5466
Moderate
Wrigleyville’s Tango Sur, which features lovely outdoor seating during warmer months, is a faithful recreation of an Argentine asado or parilla, a steakhouse specializing in grilled meats. Tango music plays above the din, and the servers are extremely polite when dealing with the crowds waiting for a table.
Appetizers tend to be heavy: Patrons who order the parillada have a whole grill loaded with chorizo, blood sausage, beef short ribs, and sweetbreads delivered to their table. Steer clear of the overly bitter and garlicky spinach empanada in favor of the more delicately seasoned beef.
The specialty of the house is bife vesuvio, steak stuffed with spinach, cheese and garlic. Lomo means tenderloin, in this case, filet mignon of beef. While more tender than the churrasco, or sirloin, the latter has better flavor. Meat entrees are served with a simple salad of lettuce and tomato as well as fried potatoes. For those who aren’t tempted by beef there are a few authentic and decent pasta dishes on the menu (many Argentines are of Italian descent). Entree portions are enormous, so doggie bags are required for all but the most ambitious eaters–ask for the rest of your meal para llevar, or to go.
As for what bottle to bring along, consider picking up an Argentine wine. Malbec is probably the best known variety, but there are also fine Cabernet Sauvignons being produced. Some good-value labels include Grafigna, Bodega Norton, Crios, Luca and J&F Lurton, all of whose wines can be found at discounts stores such as Sam’s and Cost Plus World




